My thought is me: that is why I can't stop.
I exist by what I think...and I can't prevent myself from thinking.
- Jean-Paul Sartre -
Marina Taina and the anchorage around it is the most popular area in Tahiti. It's close to the largest supermarket in the country, away from the hustle and bustle of Papeete. (Thank you Larry Page, Sergey Brin and the Google team for the image)
Back in the Society
Coming to Tahiti inevitably joined us back into the coconut milk run, the well trodden path which we often want to avoid, but which is well trodden for many good reasons; good services, favourable winds and pleasant destinations. Tahiti appeared to be a real convergence zone of cruisers on different routes. A modern marina with a forest of masts, surrounded by a tightly packed anchorage welcomed us to a different kind of cruising experience: partys, happy hours, filled up shopping trolleys (which you can push all the way to the dinghy dock), refueling, stocking up and socialising.
"Going to town?", asked Norman. Thanks to the 90 hp tender we arrived in Papeete city in less than 10 minutes, without my dandruff.
Tahiti is part of the Society Islands, so named by Captain Cook after The Royal Society. (The Royal Society was born from regular meetings by British scientists in 1645 and grew into an independent body that promotes the natural sciences. Captain Cook's botanist Joseph Banks became the Society's president in 1778.)
Too good
Annina was glowing with joy. Not only was the scenery majestic but so was the selection of goodies in the shops. I joined the madness with my own list: 640Gb USB drive, new cockpit speakers, new Plana Avanti fins, a new low volume mask for free diving and a nice pair of Maui Jim sun glasses! As you can well imagine, all of the above was absolutely essential to our survival.
"Look at all the different mustards!" Tahiti Carrefour supermarket was too good to be true. Too bad for the wallet.
There was a serious competition for space between my cold beers and all the other stuff that suddenly had to be squeezed into our fridge.
While other yachts seemed to be in mainly for repairs and waiting for spare parts, we were on a perpetual happy hour. As concerning as it might be, we didn't have any major problems. It was hard to find a yacht in a marina or in the anchorage that wasn't struggling with a broken something. The top five of broken equipment was: 1.generator 2.water maker 3.fridge/freezer 4.autopilot 5. water pump. Sails, toilets, rigging, stern drives, gear boxes and electrical systems were also a popular cause of misery. I started to get seriously worried about our equipment and our cruise. Surely something terrible is about to happen, something important about to break. My knuckles turned sore from knocking on wood.
Moorea was calling out to us every night at sunset. View from the anchorage in Tahiti.
We caught up with the gang of Sy Carl Linne. Remember? The 106-foot yacht that I helped polish in Rikitea. I spent three days on my knees - sanding - earning a replacement digital camera. (Cheers, Greg for bringing it from Sydney!). After refilling our stocks, I expected to be away in a week. I mis-expected. Two weeks later we were still busy with dock parties, happy hours and dinners onboard various boats or with various people. It was not until 3 weeks was full that we managed to pull out and make the arduous passage to Moorea - 10 miles away. The old truth in cruising remains true to me: A week is not enough, three is getting too much.
The "mega yacht dock" turned into a party-zone almost every Friday. From a 50-hour working week into 80's theme to Jazz concert, there was never a dull moment with the big boat's crew.
Moorea
Moorea embodies the classic beauty of a South Pacific Island. Its volcanic peaks are shrouded in clouds, steep hills covered in lush green forest and its forshore rimmed with a coral reef. The scenery is breath takingly beautiful. My plan to stay only a short time in French Polynesia was starting to fall apart. We managed to NOT do much at all for nearly two weeks. Beach BBQ's, potluck, drive around the island and finally waiting for the weather to improve.
But there's no story to tell, other than the pictures. Our time in Society islands has been a honeymoon full of pleasure not worth writing about. You see, without any drama, ranting and difficulties, there's no excitement for the reader. I let the pictures do the talking and go back to my gin and tonic. Catch ya later. I'm sure there's some dramas awaiting us around the corner. I'll let you know...until then: No news is good news.
1. Cook Bay. Over 20m deep, but we found a mooring opposite the little Mobil fuel dock on the eastern side.
2. A narrow marked gutter - just under 2 m deep at the end - leads to this little paradise, spoiled by the odd jet ski and resort water taxis.
3. Opunohu Bay, the anchorage of choice since Cook (Endeavour) and Bligh (Bounty). Lock your outboard here.
4. Top of Opunohu Bay, the most populated anchorage for a reason. Public park, sandy beach, shallow bottom. Local shop with fresh bread. Top spot, if not too crowded.
(Thank you Larry Page, Sergey Brin and the Google team for the image)
If you seek authenticity for authenticity's sake, you are no longer authentic.
- Jean-Paul Sartre -
Shiny enough? I can only hope that the name is an omen. Owners of these kinda toys rarely have much time to enjoy their luxuries, the crew certainly don't find it blissfull polishing them. Marina Taina, Tahiti.
There's nothing more stylish in a yacht than decks clear of clutter. The tender is a jet - naturally. Nice! (Marina Taina, Tahiti)
Party time in Marina Taina, Tahiti.
A few prawns on the barbie. Our charcoal BBQ has been under-used. Moorea.
A desire is in fact never satisfied to the letter precisely because of the abyss that separates the real from the imaginary.
- Jean-Paul Sartre -
The anchorage on top of Opunohu Bay (4) is the most popular for a reason. The scenery is nice, there are two (expensive) wifi signals, there is a decent beach, a park with picnic tables, corner shop, clear water and plenty of fellow cruisers - should you still want to do more "yachtie talk".
Despite having blown our budget in Tahiti, we continued the "climax" of our 2-yer honeymoon. Rental car and lunches at the Hilton. Moorea
Yeah, there's always the lure of the exotic, the macho, the dangerous, the nice ass? Tiki village, Moorea.
Belvederre in Moorea has a view to both Cook Bay and Opunohu. Panoramic View
I'm trying to be as fierce looking as him, but it just isn't in me. Tiki village, Moorea.
Table for three, please. Moorea.
BBQ dinner onboard Aliisa: grilled fresh pineapple, sweet chili chicken, garlic and lime prawn skewers, vege skewers, salad, steamed broccoli, potatos and tzatziki sauce. I love a good, plain, simple meal! Moorea.
Cruising with kids is common. Almost 20 cruising children were keeping the park very much alive during a sundowner gettogether on the beach. This image handily disputes the creationists views on evolution. (The parents were biting their tongue and trying not to watch...) Opunohu, Moorea.
Dolphins leading the way into Opunohu Bay. We had just watched "Bounty" on DVD and I was most disappointed to notice the lack of canoes with bare breasted girls ready to welcome us in. Progress is not always good.
Aliisa under sail in Opunohu Bay
There are no joggers in Tahiti. Paddlers, yes. Doesn't matter if you paddle a surf board or an outrigger. With or without a dog. One, two or twenty in a canoe. Boys and girls, fat and skinny, old and young, they do it every day, twice a day. Tahiti.
Looking for a waterfall in Moorea. We left the rental car behind and continued on foot. One wrong turn, one hour hike and we could hear the roar of water. Never found it.
Next:
Huahine...